SWITZERLAND: Artificial intelligence is being used to design next-generation microturbocompressors which could reduce heat pumps’ power requirement by 20-25%.
Turbocompressors are more efficient and ten times smaller than piston devices, but incorporating these mini components into heat pumps’ designs is not easy – complications arise from their tiny diameters (<20mm) and fast rotation speeds (>200,000rpm).
Researchers at the Laboratory for Applied Mechanical Design at Lausanne’s EPFL (École polytechnique fédérale de Lausanne) have developed a method that is said to make it easier and faster to add turbocompressors to heat pumps. Using a machine-learning process called symbolic regression, the researchers came up with simple equations for quickly calculating the optimal dimensions of a turbocompressor for a given heat pump.
The researchers’ method is said to drastically simplify the first step in designing turbochargers. This step – which involves roughly calculating the ideal size and rotation speed for the desired heat pump – is extremely important because a good initial estimate can considerably shorten the overall design time. Until now, engineers have been using design charts to size their turbocompressors – but these charts become increasingly inaccurate the smaller the equipment. Also, the researchers argue that the charts have not kept up to date with the latest technology.
The EPFL team fed the results of 500,000 simulations into machine-learning algorithms and generated equations that replicate the charts but with several claimed advantages: they are reliable even at small turbocompressor sizes; they are just as detailed as more complicated simulations; and they are 1,500 times faster. The researchers’ method also lets engineers skip some of the steps in conventional design processes. It paves the way to easier implementation and more widespread use of microturbochargers in heat pumps, they argue.
BULGARIA: The Bulgarian Customs Agency has announced that the seized refrigerant it was seeking to auction will now be destroyed.
A statement on the agency’s website indicates that no written bids were received by the close of business on Friday for the 977 cylinders of R404A and R410A.
The statement says: “Due to the absence of applicants who purchased documents for participation in the auction procedure in the specified period-21.06.2009, the auction ends without realising a sale, as the goods remain in the Customs Agency and are subject to destruction in compliance with regulatory and environmental requirements.”
There have been no further comments from either the Bulgarian Customs Agency or the European Commission, and it is unclear at this time whether the decision is the result of international pressure. However, the Cooling Post had previously been told that the refrigerant would be the subject of three sales before destruction.
The refrigerant was from a seized shipment from Serbia in 2017. The consignment documentation falsely claimed that the refrigerant was isobutane.
Outside of the F-gas quota system and contained in illegal disposable cylinders, its proposed sale attracted disbelief and anger in the air conditioning and refrigeration community.
There is nothing worse than waking up cold in the middle of the night.
It’s one thing if you just need to pull the covers up. It’s a whole different issue if your furnace is working poorly or not working at all.
With a little do-it-yourself experience, you can troubleshoot and repair your furnace yourself. Your best bet though, is to have a maintenance check list for your heating system to avoid the problem.
Today I have something that will make you feel like you have the knowledge to tackle some furnace repairs:
19 common furnace problems and how to fix them right now.
Whether you have a conventional gas furnace or a high efficiency gas furnace understanding how your furnace/heating system works is important. You need to understand the basic workings of the appliance so you know what to look for when there is something wrong.
Let’s take a look at a conventional furnace and tips to solve its more common problems. (If you feel uncomfortable with any of these do-it-yourself steps, then make a service call to a trusted professional. Saving a few dollars is not worth the uncertainty or a dangerous event involving the furnace.)
Check Your Thermostat to make sure it’s ON
It may sound silly, but check the thermostat to ensure it is set on “heat” and that it is set at least five degrees above room temperature. You might be surprised how many service calls are made without checking this!
Here are a few thermostat checks to conduct yourself:
Step 1: Check the battery on the thermostat. You may need to change the batteries on your thermostat. If your home’s thermostat unit runs on batteries, be sure you are changing them at least once a year, or as needed.
Some thermostats are wired to the house’s electrical system, while others use batteries. How is yours powered? Sometimes those that use batteries will flash a low-battery symbol when they need a replacement.
Step 2: Open the thermostat and gently blow any dust or debris that may have clogged it.
Step 3: Make sure the date and time is correct on electronic or programmable models – the system may be on a timer.
Step 4: Check the breaker. If on, turn off the breaker and check the fuse for the furnace.
Furnace is Not Producing Heat – Try to Reset Home Circuit Breaker
There are any number of minor reasons why this could occur. First, confirm that the thermostat is set to “Heat.” Then, try moving the dial up or down a few degrees to check if a noticeable difference is felt.
If there is no result, check to see if perhaps a circuit breaker or fuse was tripped or blown.
How to Test Home Breakers:
Go to your home’s breaker panel and look for the circuit that controls the furnace. You’re looking to see whether it’s thrown to the “Off” position, or whether it’s in the middle.
1. Manually test the breaker. Flip it back and forth.
2. Make sure it is staying in the “On” position.
This will reset the breaker. If this does not do the trick, you have a problem with either the wiring in the circuit or the circuit breaker itself.
Furnace is Not Producing Enough Heat – Check and Change Your Clogged Filter
A furnace that struggles to produce heat is a different matter from one that has somehow stopped working.
In the case of a poor-performing furnace that doesn’t heat the home sufficiently, first ensure that the air filter is clean and in good condition, if not new.
Check and Change Your Clogged Filter
This is a simple but essential part of furnace maintenance. One of the most common reasons to have a furnace not working is a clogged filter. It also happens to be the easiest maintenance chore.
Replacing your furnace filter regularly is a quick and simple task, and goes a long way in protecting HVAC components and improving your inside air quality.
Locate your filter – Some furnaces have their filter in the intake. This most likely looks like a grate in a floor, ceiling or wall. Other filters reside in the furnace itself.
Check your filter – You can tell if the time has come to change it by holding it up to the light. If no light shines through, the filter needs changing. A dusty, dirty smell from the vents when the blower turns on is another good sign you should change your furnace filter.
Replace your filter – Make sure your furnace is turned off. No air should be coming out. Check the direction your filter points. Filters are made to trap matter blown from one direction. Installing your filter upside-down can reduce its effectiveness.
Cleaning the debris that builds up on your filters will aid with the flow of air. When your air filter is clogged, your air handler must work harder to compensate for the blockage of air flow. In addition to driving up your utility bill, the reduced air flow through your heating and cooling system can cause your heat exchanger to overheat and shut off too quickly.
“Filters clean the air headed into the furnace and the heated air sent back into the house. A dirty, clogged filter limits the airflow, eventually causing heat and pressure to build up in the furnace.
Newer, more efficient furnaces are sensitive to the problem and will often shut down before a dirty filter causes more trouble. For other units, the furnace will continue to run but with less heat output and reduced efficiency.”
Safety Switch on Furnace Door
If your furnace is not operating, one of the first things you should do is check the safety switch on the furnace door. A furnace door safety switch prevents the fan and burner from coming on while the access panel is removed.
Furnaces have a safety switch that pops out when the door is removed. The door must be in place for the switch to be activated and for the furnace to operate.
If you discover you need to install a new safety switch, follow the step by step instructions on “How to Install a Furnace Door Safety Switch.”
Step 1: Shut the power off
Step 2: Prep the blower door
Step 3: Wire the safety switch
Step 4: Check and test the installation
Keep the Area Around Your Furnace Clean and Unobstructed
This may seem like an obvious tip, but sometimes homeowners with busy lives forget to pay attention to areas of their home like the basement.
A basement can become cluttered, which in turn can lead to the area around the furnace being filled with miscellaneous possessions and debris. Not only does a clean furnace function better, it looks better.
Avoid storing flammable substances or materials near your furnace. Crowding your furnace can lead to unexpected fires, significant damage to your home and danger to your family and pets.
However convenient it may seem to simply “store it there” for the summer, consider the chance that you may well forget any items you’ve left on or near your furnace. Don’t take chances, give your furnace the room it needs to operate safely.
Additionally, vacuum and clean regularly around your furnace. While you may have removed any and all flammable items from the area, remember that dust and lint can build up and create a fire hazard. An excess amount of dust and lint can also cause your filter to become clogged sooner than usual, requiring more frequent replacement.
Look at the Burner Flames
The most common failures associated with your burners can come from contamination. You will want to inspect your burners to make sure they are free from debris.
You want to make sure your burners are clean and one way to do this is to look at the flames.
Are they blue and even?
Then your burner is likely clean. If they are yellow, you probably have dirty burners. You can clean your burners with a vacuum cleaner; just make sure to turn the power and the gas off first. Another area you should clean with a vacuum cleaner is the region around the blower.
Dust can accumulate during the summer. Therefore, it’s very important to check and clean the furnace burners before the start of the colder seasons.
A combination of condensation and soot can cause burners to function improperly, and may cause other furnace problems as well. The burner assembly should be cleaned annually or replaced if the existing one is in poor condition.
Oil the Furnace Blower Once a Year
When preparing your furnace for winter, it is important to make sure all the components of your heating system are clean and in working order.
The furnace blower’s main function is to draw heat from the furnace and distribute it throughout the house. Keeping a furnace blower lubricated will extend the life of your furnace.
Here are 7 easy and detailed steps How to Oil a Furnace Blower Motor, courtesy of SFGate:
Step 1: Turn off the circuit breaker at the main electrical panel that supplies the furnace’s power.
Step 2: Remove the furnace’s access panel by detaching the screws with a screwdriver.
Step 3: Locate the blower motor assembly near the base of the furnace. Remove the bolts securing the blower motor to the furnace’s main assembly with a wrench.
Step 4: Locate the set screw on the side of the blower motor housing. Detach the bolts. Pull the motor from the housing.
Step 5: Locate the oil ports on the motor and shaft.
Step 6: Squeeze 2 to 3 drops of oil into each port.
Step 7: Activate furnace. Blower motor should run better with the new oil.
The furnace blower motor plays a big role in how your heating system functions. It should be oiled once a year and it shouldn’t make any unusual noises when started.
Check Your Limit Switch
A bad limit switch could cause the blower to run continuously, and as a result, it will significantly shorten the lifespan of the blower.
Having a technician replace the limit switch will quickly solve that problem.
How can I test whether my furnace issue is the limit switch or the thermostat?
“If the high limit switch was bad, the furnace should not fire. When the high limit switch trips, the flame/heating element will be shut off and the blower will continue to run to clear the heat. The blower will continue to run until either the system is reset, or the limit switch closes.”
“Limit switches are normally closed, and they should always fail open. Which means when they go bad, or the temperature gets too high they open the circuit.
If the circuit is open, you’ll want to replace the limit switch.”
Check Your Electric Ignition or Pilot Control
Gas furnace operation can function with a pilot light or have electronic control, which eliminates the need for a constant flame.
A faulty ignition system such as those found on furnaces with a thermocouple, can significantly reduce the ability of the furnace to properly heat the home. Drafts or clogs in your heating system can result in your pilot light going out.
Many newer systems ignite electrically, rather than by a standing pilot light.
Action steps you can take yourself include:
Step 1: Turn the furnace power switch off and back on (the ignition may need to be reset).
Step 2: Turn off power and gas to the furnace to allow inspection of heating element. Do not touch the heating element, but if it looks cracked or damaged, you’ll need to replace the igniter.
Step 3: With manual in hand for the furnace, go through the steps recommended by the manufacturer to troubleshoot operation. As with the pilot light, you can do damage to the system and your property if you skip steps or safety procedures during this task.
Step 4: Follow the directions and if it doesn’t work, call for service.
Heating or Rapid Cycling Problems
In the case of a furnace turning on and off again too quickly, many causes exist. As always, the first may be a dirty or worn-out air filter. If you haven’t replaced it within very recent memory, try doing so — it’s a quick and easy fix.
When to call a professional: If a new filter doesn’t solve the problem, you may have a more serious situation. There may be an issue with the blower motor and belts, both of which require the service of a professional.
Furnace Does Not Blow Air
Look into the inspection window on the furnace. Make sure the blower is clear of any debris. Also, there should be a flashing light; green or red.
Check the manual to be sure. If the light is green, it’s okay; if red, call for service. And if there is no light, the furnace problem may be with the thermostat, the blower motor, the run capacitor, furnace control board or transformer.
Gas Furnace Blower Runs Continuously
The blower is located between the return ductwork and the furnace. Cool air is sent by the blower into the heat exchanger and warmed before entering the plenum and then sent throughout your home by the supply ducts.
A constantly running furnace that doesn’t shut off can be a sign of a needed repair. Check to ensure that your thermostat is not set to “continuous fan”.
Turn the temperature down to see if this measure solves the problem.
A gas furnace blower that does not turn off could also indicate a problem with a faulty limit control switch. (which may need resetting or replacing).
Noisy Furnace or Duct Work
Rumbling, squeaking and rattles aren’t normal. The sounds may indicate a mechanical problem, airflow reductions or a clogged burner.
Sometimes a furnace may be running fine, but loudly. If you can tell the noise is a result of the air running through the ductwork, one solution may be to insulate your ductwork to cut down on the noise.
If the actual furnace system is making odd noises, this can occur when the pilot light is improperly adjusted or the blower motor lubrication ports need oiling. There may also be an issue with the belts or even the burner.
What are the different noises coming from your furnace?
a. Pinging or popping sounds – could be thermal expansion- the ductwork expanding and contracting as it heats and cools.
b. Rattling noises – loose panels may need to be tightened.
c. Squealing noises – could be a belt that connects the motor to the fan slipped. Or the belt needs replacement.
d. Grinding sounds – probably time to call a furnace repair technician. The motor bearings need repair.
The Spruce; a site dedicated to offering practical, real-life tips to help you create your best home; came up with their list of identifying furnace sounds.
Ranging from scraping, thumping, humming, banging and rumbling, they provide a list of common furnace related noises and their possible causes to better describe the problem to your technician.
Check Your Vents
Walk through the entire house and check the vents to ensure nothing is blocking them.
A curtain or piece of furniture may be obstructing the openings of one or more vents, preventing heat flow.
Flame Sensor Needs Cleaning
The flame sensor is a crucial safety feature on your gas heating equipment. It safeguards your furnace against the unsafe burning of fuel, and a dirty flame sensor may cause your furnace to function improperly.
Typically, the flame sensor comes in the form of a rod that can be found near the back of the furnace, right in the path of the burner.
How to Clean the Sensor:
Step 1: Turn off power to the furnace at the breaker box
Step 2: If possible, remove the sensor from the furnace
Step 3: Scrub the sensor gently to remove dust and other residues
Step 4: Reattach the sensor
Step 5: Resume power to the furnace
Over time, if the flame sensor is not cleaned appropriately, oxidation or carbon buildup can restrict the flame sensor’s ability to work properly, which can cause the furnace to malfunction.
“The way to determine if an unclean flame sensor is causing a furnace malfunction is to take a micro amp draw reading, which an expert furnace technician can provide you.
If a dirty flame sensor is the guilty party, the furnace expert will clean the sensor with steel wool. If dirt was the only factor, you will see a significantly higher amp reading. If the reading does not change, a technician will proceed with the furnace repair diagnostic process.” What a Flame Sensor is and Why it Matters
Inspect Gas Line
Check the entire gas line from the main inlet to the furnace burners.
While standing at the furnace, follow the gas line. It may be closed, or the switch may have been turned off.
Check to see if your hot water tank is working. If not, it may be a gas supply issue to the house. The gas line should be set on “Open”.
Also, if the furnace has a pilot light, check to see if it is lit. Sometimes, a pilot light can be extinguished in the off-season.
Re-lighting the pilot is a simple process. Instructions are usually posted on the side of the furnace.
If the pilot light does not stay on after a few attempts, you may need a repair from a professional.
Smelling Gas – Proceed With Caution
If you suspect a gas leak, and the odor is strong, you should immediately leave your home and contact your gas utility company.
A gas leak will effect the efficient operation of your gas furnace. But more importantly, it can be a very serious health hazard to you and your family.
Clean Leaves and Debris from Heat Pumps or Intake and Exhaust Vents
“If you have a furnace that vents out the side of the house, make sure nothing is blocking the intake or exhaust. If either of the pipes is covered with screen mesh (like window screen), replace it with 1/2-in.-mesh hardware cloth.
If ice is clogging one of the pipes, you have a bigger problem somewhere in the system. Clear it off and call a technician to find out why it’s happening.
If you have a heat pump, clear away grass and leaves from the fins of the outdoor compressor unit. Before heating season starts, hose it down gently from the top to rinse dirt and debris out of the housing.”
Know the Age of Your Furnace
Furnaces are designed and built to last many years, but none of them keep running forever.
If your particular heating unit has reached or passed the manufacturer’s warranty period, you may not be getting all of the heating productivity that you’re paying for.
It might be time to replace your HVAC system.
I know this article showed you how to fix some of the common furnace problems.
Have you experienced any of the do-it-yourself repairs?
Having your system inspected periodically, and at least as often as the manufacturer recommends, can prevent a minor repair from becoming a major endeavor.
Remember while attempting do-it-yourself repairs can be satisfying and cost effective, it is important to be sure that you have the skills before attempting any work on your furnace.
If the tips do not help you to detect or solve problems or if they are above your skill-level, you may need the services of a furnace repair professional.
It’s so important to maintain seasonal cleaning and tune-ups for your HVAC system. It is a forgotten system until it stops working.
AirCo Pakistan has the capacity and capability to maintain your air conditioning systems. Contact us for any Air Conditioning related jobs.
USA: United Technologies (UTC) has appointed David L Gitlin as president and CEO of its Carrier air conditioning and refrigeration business in advance of its planned spin off next year.
Described as a UTC veteran, Gitlin moves from the group’s aerospace business where he was most recently president and COO of Collins Aerospace. He was previously president of UTC Aerospace Systems after leading the integration of Goodrich Corporation with UTC.
UTC announced late last year its intention to separate into three independent companies by spinning off its Carrier and Otis elevator businesses.
A new president and CEO, Judith F Marks, has also been appointed for its Otis elevator business.
“I’m pleased to announce these most important assignments as we make strong progress toward our goal of establishing both Carrier and Otis as stand-alone public companies and clear leaders in their respective industries,” commented UTC chairman and CEO Greg Hayes.
“As we prepare to become an independent public company, we will be working tirelessly to ensure that we provide best-in-class performance for our customers, employees and shareholders,” added Dave Gitlin.
The spin off of the Otis and Carrier businesses is not affected by today’s announcement that UTC is to merge with aerospace company Raytheon. The timing of the separation of Otis and Carrier is said to be on track for completion in the first half of 2020.
UAE: Eurovent Certita Certification has added high ambient temperature conditions to its certification programme for VRF air conditioning systems.
Now, product that is tailormade for the Middle East market can be certified to display their performance in hot or very hot climatic environments.
The amended VRF certification programme certifies according to ISO 15042 and accommodates units with an outdoor unit capacity up to 100kW at 50 or 60 Hz, with up to 8 indoor units (ducted horizontal, cassette, wall mounted, ceiling suspended).
All units will be tested at T1 (35°C), T3 (46°C), and T4 (48°C), and will undergo an operability test at 52°C.
Eurovent Middle East MD Markus Lattner said the programme had been developed specifically for the region. “As a regional association, it is important to us to increase the visibility of the Middle East internationally and the understanding for the harsh environment under which we and our equipment operate. With the addition of high ambient conditions, this programme provides the market with an excellent tool to assess product performances based on region-specific testing. It even accommodates the higher requirements of Kuwait,” he said.
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Implementing recently approved amendments to increase the hydrocarbon charge size for refrigerant allowed in cooling cabinets may take some time to be implemented in the UK, Martyn Cooper of FETA has said.
Mr Cooper has warned that despite some industry interest in adopting the new charge sizes, the process of implementing changes safely into EU and UK law would be complex and “convoluted”. However, the process is viewed as being vital to build up industry awareness and capability for the safe handling of different types of products with some level of flammability, he said.
A proposal put forward to the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) to increase the amount of HFCS was approved for plug-in applications this month after previously being narrowly rejected by voting members in April.
A vote by Malaysian representatives at the IEC against the revised edition of the IEC 60335-2-89 standard was ultimately rejected due to a procedural matter.
The publication of the standard is expected soon and will allow for the new charge sizes to be implemented imminently, according to the IEC. However, countries and a number of regions such as the EU will need to amend the standards to their own laws. These will then need to be passed into legislation.
Martin Cooper said that the process of safely defining new standards based on these charge limits was not something that could be rushed, even with market interest in expanding the applications for hydrocarbons in cooling.
He said, “This is going to be a very convoluted process and will take some time. Ultimately, we are talking about safety.”
Mr Cooper noted that part of the complexity of the process was ongoing industry concerns – even among some FETA members – over a number of details there were yet to be finalised over the safety aspects of any increased charge size.
A significant amount of work with stakeholders and FETA members was now needed both at EU and UK level to ensure clear standards and industry awareness was in place, he added.
The new charge size approved for hydrocarbon as defined under IEC 60335-2-89 has been increased to 500g from 150g. The increase is even higher in the case of lower flammability gas (A2Ls) – from 150g to 1.2kg. A2L charge is defined separately under the standard.
Mr Cooper said the process of approving these charge sizes was an important step to help the meet EU targets to curb reliance on higher GWP products under the F-Gas Regulation by finding viable alternatives to reduce the industry’s carbon emissions from cooling. This remained the case even with the additional work required to fully ensure safety, he added.
New era for flammables labelling
FETA noted that efforts to introduce the amended charge sizes were being introduced alongside other important changes to EU chemical labelling regulations. Mr Cooper said the changes were expected to give a more nuanced approach to detailing the level of flammability in a gas cylinder.
He said that refrigerant with both lower and higher flammability had previously used the same labelling. However, with lower flammability products being separately classed to the H-221 labelling standard, there was now a clear differentiation between the product’s lower flammability compared to the qualities of A3 gas.
Over the next year or so, Mr Cooper said he expected new cylinder labels to become noticeable on the market. The labels would reflect what he called a “spectrum of flammability” concerning the risks and safety measures needed to handle each type of gas based on its respective level of flammability
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SWITZERLAND: In a remarkable recount, the IEC has now voted to accept a new standard which will increase the flammable refrigerant charge limit in air conditioning and refrigeration equipment.
There has been no official confirmation as yet, but it appears that Malaysia’s “no” vote on proposals to amend the 60335-2-89 standard has been ruled out as it did not follow voting procedures.
Last month, the Final Draft International Standard (FDIS) vote at the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) was defeated by just one vote. The nine opposing votes from the 35 nations voting, meant that the proposal could not enacted as it exceeded the maximum limit of 25%.
It was later found that Malaysia, one of those who voted against, did not include any technical justification as required by IEC directives clause 2.7.3. When this was pointed out to the IEC, Malaysia’s vote was rejected.
The amendment to the IEC 60335-2-89 standard has been in development since 2014. The long-awaited changes, if finally ratified, will see A3 refrigerant charge sizes increase to 500g and A2L refrigerants to 1.2kg.
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Air balancing will improve air circulation, increase energy efficiency and enhance the overall performance of your air conditioning and heating system. For a homeowner, it means delivering the right amount of air (hot or cold) to each room making your home more comfortable.
Air balancing for a HVAC technician is the process of testing and adjusting your system using their skill and tools of the trade. They look at your intake and output and adjust accordingly.
Rob Falke, President, National Comfort Institute — an HVAC-based training company, adds “balancing is the single-most important step that can be taken to assure your systems produce comfort and operate efficiently.”
In this article, I’ll share ways you can do-it-yourself to adjust (balance) your airflow for comfort. Then, I’ll share ways that may require a HVAC professional and I’ll help you understand how a technician will go about actually balancing a residential system.
What is Air Balancing?
Air balancing is the process that involves modifying your existing HVAC system to make sure that air is evenly distributed throughout the home. All zones will have the correct amount of heat transfer.
11 Tips on Balancing the Temperatures in Your Home
It’s time to avoid those pesky hot and cold spots and uneven temperatures. I broke it down into easy, do-it-yourself tips, to harder may need some skill, to it’s time to contact a professional.
Close or Open Your Register
Try a 2 Degree Offset
Check Filters for Cleanliness
Install Window Coverings to Prevent Heat
Avoid Placing Electronic Equipment Near Thermostat
Prevent Airflow Restrictions
Place Thermostat Fan Setting to “ON”
Fix Your Duct Work
Check and Adjust the System’s Blower Fan Speed
Install Extra Return Ducts if Necessary
Use Two Air Handlers
Do it yourself…
1. Close or Open Your Register
Simple yet effective. You have the ability to move the damper blade. It will restrict air flow in the room. But, don’t completely close the vents, it could cause other issues to your HVAC system.
During warm weather temperatures, open registers on your upper floor and partially close registers on first floor and / or your basement. During cold temperatures, reverse the process.
Sierra Air Conditioning put together a handy guide to get your system properly balanced for each season. Try this process first:
Step 1: Set your thermostat to 76-78 degrees. (ideal range to start testing)
Step 2: Leave the temperature alone for at least 24 hours.
Step 3: In areas that are too cool, adjust the vents to allow for less air flow.
Step 4: Adjust in small increments to feel what works for your comfort.
Step 5: Re-check your adjustments (24 hours later) to feel if you reached the desired temperature.
Step 6: Continue until you reach your ideal temperature.
2. Try a 2 Degree Offset
If you’re in a two-story home and have two thermostats, set the temperatures to have a 2 degree off-set.
Here’s what I mean…
Set the thermostat at a 2 degree difference for the floors. For example, upstairs could be set at 74 degrees and downstairs at 72. This will help with uneven temperatures.
3. Check Filters for Cleanliness
There are numerous reasons to keep your filters clean…
Improves your air quality – cleaning the debris that builds up on your filters will aid with the flow of air.
Increases the efficiency of your furnace – reduced air flow through your heating and cooling system can cause your heat exchange to overheat and shut off too quickly. Keep the filter clean and it will aid in the efficiency of your furnace.
Extend the life of your HVAC system – would you believe the most common reason a HVAC breaks down is due to a dirty filter? A dirty filter makes your system work harder causing it to overheat.
Help keep energy costs down – Heating your home uses more energy and costs more money than any other system in your home — typically making up about 42% of your utility bill. If your filter is not clogged your system will run more efficient. This alone will help keep your energy costs down. When you regularly change your filter, you can save from 5 to 15% on your bills.
4. Install Window Coverings to Prevent Heat
Your windows will impact the comfort level in each room. Windows without drapes, blinds, shades etc. can heat up a room faster before a thermostat has the time to turn on and add relief.
Window coverings can make a difference in the overall appeal and comfort level. They also can help improve energy efficiency. In cooling seasons, about 76% of sunlight that falls on standard double-pane windows enters to become heat.
5. Avoid Placing Electronic Equipment Near Thermostat
Electronic equipment creates a lot of heat and can really affect your comfort. Nowadays with the addition of large screen TV’s and computers, the distribution of heat in the room can change and may require adjustments to your vents.
This is typically noticed if you have a room air conditioner. The thermostat can pick up heat from appliances which can also cause your A/C to operate longer.
6. Prevent Airflow Restrictions
Do not cover registers with furniture or items that will restrict air flow. When you block a vent with furniture your system has to work harder. Vents are there to supply free flow of air.
Here’s a quick fix from Integrity Air:
“Your vents need 18 inches of space. Rearrange your furniture and hem your curtains so you can provide them with the air flow they need. If you have no other choice, get a magnetic air deflector so that the air blows away from the nearby furniture.”
Deflectors can redirect the air flow keeping the intended air circulation.
7. Place Thermostat Fan Setting to “ON”
Your fan setting can have an impact on your indoor air quality and comfort level. Most systems have two fan settings: On and Auto.
By utilizing the “ON” setting, the fan will blow continuously which will filter and always be replacing your indoor air. This in turn, will keep the air steady. In using the auto position, your air can become more stagnant.
Both come with pros and cons. When flipping to the On setting, you may see an increase in your utility bill.
Bonus Do-it-Yourself tips…
Watch as Dave Mars, Columbia Water & Light describes the importance of balanced air flow in a heating and cooling system.
Making sure your vents are working properly and preventing leaks in ducts will help save money and energy.
Next up: Not so do-it yourself air balancing tips…
8. Fix Your Duct Work
Fix any duct work damage and or defects. Problems with the duct work can cause uneven distribution.
If the duct air flow system is out of balance you will find that when heating, some rooms are not warm enough while others are too cool. While in air conditioning mode, you’ll find similarly that some rooms are not cool enough while others are too warm.
Depending on your skill you could:
fix loose duct joints by refitting and sealing the junction.
look for ductwork with sharp turns
insulate or seal the ducts
Always best to contact a HVAC professional.
9. Check and Adjust the System’s Blower Fan Speed
Switching the fan speed can be easy if you know what you are doing.
Hunker gives a step by step tutorial, “How to change air handler fan speed” from disconnecting the power to testing the unit.
The steps include…
disconnecting the power
locating the blower motor and wiring
identifying the speed wires
changing the active speed wire
testing your HVAC system
10. Install Extra Return Ducts if Necessary
“A second return duct can lower static pressure if the airflow bottleneck is on the return side.”
Blake Shurtz, Greiner wrote an informative article on Adding a Second Return is Almost Always a Good Idea.
11. Use Two Air Handlers
“If a single air handler is used for both heating and cooling, a basement located air handler will have an easier time pushing warm air up into higher floors of the home than it will pushing cool air up into the same spaces during the cooling season.
(Warm air rises through a building by convection while heavier cool air tends to fall).
Increased fan speed for cooling operation or booster fans may help. To avoid this problem some HVAC designs use two air handlers, placing the second unit in the attic or ceiling above the uppermost floor.”
Air balancing is a method of testing your heating and cooling system to spot any problems that are causing uneven airflow or negative air pressure. By doing this, every room in your home will be as comfortable as possible with the equipment you have.
To check the air balance, HVAC technicians will need to test your system’s performance.
“Find the tonnage or heating output to determine required system airflow. Divide the total system airflow so each room has its share. This can be done using Manual J or one of several estimating techniques, including calculating air changes.”
That’s just the start at where a HVAC expert will begin.
An air technician runs diagnostic tests on your ductwork and other systems. They run a TAB – testing, adjusting and balancing.
Some of the air flow tips are easy and can be done today.